Well, unfortunately I know quite a bit more about woodworking than engine mechanics. I discourage anyone from using solid wood for their dash parts, primarily due to the fact that unless you're using a very stable wood such as koa or mahogany, you are almost guaranteed to face warping, especially if you don't have a garage with some control over the climate, or plant on parking the car in direct sunlight and/or high humidity, or are using woods such as pine or maple. There's a reason why the high quality handmade furniture manufacturers useshigh quality birch plywood, mostly due to it's environmental stability.
Unless you are making many copies of the same pieces using plastic template from the old pieces using plexiglass and a dremel tool or cnc programming, simply applying a high quality wood veneer will be cheaper, easier, faster, and well within the capabilities of even the most inexperienced woodworker.
Simply buy any one of a huge assortment of figured, nonfigured, exotic or domestic wood veneers available, you can even get them of a soft enough grain and thin enough that they can be cut with a pair of scissors or exacto knife while attached using cam clamps with cork matting to prevent scratching or even double sided tape (be careful when removing) to the original pieces to be veneered, be sure to still get a venner thick enough to allow for prep sanding. If the veneer isn't perfectly flat, or if you are doing curved pieces such as the part where the verticle dash meets the center console in an 83-85 pininfarina, use a veneer softener either in the form of one that is commercially available, or a homemade mix of 4 parts water, 2 parts glycerin, 1 part alcohol, and 2 parts plastic resin glue. Then simply glue and clamp, and you can perfect the edges so the match perfectly after the glue has dried. Then, before applying the finish, sand to 220 grit for a lacquer or eurethane finish, or 400 grit (or 220 if using a random orbital palm sander) if you are using an oil finish. Don't underestimate how nice a rub on finish can look. Tung oil takes some time, up to a week to do enough coats, but looks really nice. Rub on finishes are also more easily maintained. I've even seen people use red shoe polish as a wood finish, with wonderful results. After the finish is applied, then wax and buff.
I plan on doing a spalted maple veneer, with a faint natural red/brown stain to darken (I feel unstained maple is too light for my tan dash) underneath a tung oil finish. I really don't plan on it being very difficult, and is perhaps the easiest way to make your spider stand out.