burgandy81 wrote:You might want to try a knock sensor from a turbo Lancia engine. Several variants of the 2.0 Fiat block used in turbo cars in the world other than US/Canada. Lancia Delta and Thema seem to be the more popular cars that are still supported in the aftermarket. Make sure you are shopping for 8 Valve pars (the 16 valve parts are more common) The UK and German ebay are good sources. This would give you a knock sensor from an VERY near relative and may even have a convenient mounting arrangement.
The difficulty there is that Microsquirt can't accept a raw knock sensor signal - it needs some outboard circuitry, and the common / recommended setup is what GM used from late 80's to early 00's, since it's a 1-pin sensor and a small 5-pin control module.
And even then, it seems that knock sensors are tuned to the bore and stroke of the engine they are applied to, which is why the Camry knock sensor i bought _LOOKS_ just like my land cruiser's knock sensors, but won't work right in the land cruiser. And the obd1 1FZ-FE ECU tech isn't very talkative and will just retard timing w/o throwing a code if it's unhappy about it's knock sensors. Doesn't throw a code until it's sure the sensor is dead.
So, I'll look at what Lancia was doing, but that option might require an outboard arduino or something. Thanks for the tip.
Look for Saturns. They use GM parts with all metric fasteners. I have a GM sensor in my stock FIAT sensor position between the cam wheels.
Huh, not sure what sensor you're referring to, unless FIAT put knock sensors in the head below the water neck? or do you mean a coolant temp sensor?
Still, I didn't realize that Saturn was all metric. It looks like the 1.9 SOHC I-4 in the SL1 may be a knock sensor candidate - 82mm bore 90mm stroke vs. the 2.0 TC's 84/90.
As a point of interest I had difficulties with my air temp sensor heat soaking as I mounted it into the intake manifold. I have a new sensor in the end of my cone air filter and this is much better.
That might not be totally kosher. As i understand it, IAT is supposed to be the temperature of the air after anything that might heat or cool it. I know that can get confusing for some people because a MAF, as a thermal device, has an air temperature sensor in it, which really just serves as a reference for MAF calculations, but also shows up as something you can view and log over OBD2.
In my GTI, my Ultragauge can read both the sensor in the MAF and the sensor in the intake manifold (plastic sensor in plastic manifold, not a lot of heat soaking), and there is an ambient air temperature sensor inside the front driver fender that provides the outside temperature display on the cluster, so in the summer i can get a pretty immediate idea of how well the intercooler is doing it's job. Also helped me determine that my shiny metal heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the aluminum 'cool air intake' tube doesn't do diddly squat if the car has been stationary with a hot engine. IATs got lower with the factory engine cover / intake setup. I installed a Volant intake recently, made of plastic, and I'm interested to see how that will perform this summer.
I forget if your engine is naturally aspirated, in which case, it's probably just fine. In a forced induction setup it needs to be closer to the throttle body or intake manifold. As i understand it, it's used to make an air volume calculation based on atmospheric pressure, air temperature, and the known volume of a cylinder. Which is then corrected by wideband lambda, if you have one.
I'm guessing it should be somewhere in the thick of the air flow right near the TB or in the plenum between the mouths of the 2nd and 3rd intake runners or something, to give an honest idea of how much oxygen is really getting into the engine.