Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

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Justice777
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Your car is a: 1978 Spider 124 5 spd
Location: Southern Maine

Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby Justice777 » Fri Nov 24, 2017 12:43 pm

Think I'm on the right track but feel the need to confirm.
Trans / clutch area noise - engine running, trans in neutral, sounds like a dry bearing sound, with clutch pedal up. Sound goes completely away when clutch pedal depressed.
Have I read correctly that this is trans input shaft (aka pilot) bearing noise?

Follow up question - If I use (yet to purchase) a Harbor Freight Low Lift trans jack, will I be able to get car high enough on jack stands to roll trans out from under it? HF specs state min. jack height is 7 1/4". Anyone know how high / tall is bell housing?

Edit: Can't seem to locate my 24", 3/8" drive extension. Should I purchase a 1/2" drive extension assortment instead of 3/8" drive? I know I'll need a long ratchet extension to reach top bell housing bolts.


Thanks for all your help!

bobplyler
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Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby bobplyler » Fri Nov 24, 2017 3:21 pm

Sounds like the pilot bearing
1979 Fiat Spider (since new)
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zachmac
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Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
Location: Aiken, SC

Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby zachmac » Fri Nov 24, 2017 4:39 pm

Justice777 wrote:Think I'm on the right track but feel the need to confirm.
Trans / clutch area noise - engine running, trans in neutral, sounds like a dry bearing sound, with clutch pedal up. Sound goes completely away when clutch pedal depressed.
Have I read correctly that this is trans input shaft (aka pilot) bearing noise?

Follow up question - If I use (yet to purchase) a Harbor Freight Low Lift trans jack, will I be able to get car high enough on jack stands to roll trans out from under it? HF specs state min. jack height is 7 1/4". Anyone know how high / tall is bell housing?

Edit: Can't seem to locate my 24", 3/8" drive extension. Should I purchase a 1/2" drive extension assortment instead of 3/8" drive? I know I'll need a long ratchet extension to reach top bell housing bolts.


Thanks for all your help!


Definitely sounds like pilot bearing noise BUT before you drop the tranny try adjusting the clutch. An iout of adjustment clutch can cause throw out bearing "rattle".
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12

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Nanonevol
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Your car is a: 1977 Fiat 124 Spider
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Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby Nanonevol » Fri Nov 24, 2017 4:52 pm

Should you drop the trans, you will need extensions. I don't recall the formula of wrenches but a long and a shorter extension and a swivel. I think 1/2" should be fine.
1977 Fiat Spider
1985 Jaguar XJ6
1967 Triumph Bonneville (hard-tail chopper)
1966 BSA Lightning

Justice777
Posts: 119
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:55 pm
Your car is a: 1978 Spider 124 5 spd
Location: Southern Maine

Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby Justice777 » Sat Nov 25, 2017 6:50 am

zachmac wrote:
Justice777 wrote:Think I'm on the right track but feel the need to confirm.
Trans / clutch area noise - engine running, trans in neutral, sounds like a dry bearing sound, with clutch pedal up. Sound goes completely away when clutch pedal depressed.
Have I read correctly that this is trans input shaft (aka pilot) bearing noise?

Follow up question - If I use (yet to purchase) a Harbor Freight Low Lift trans jack, will I be able to get car high enough on jack stands to roll trans out from under it? HF specs state min. jack height is 7 1/4". Anyone know how high / tall is bell housing?

Edit: Can't seem to locate my 24", 3/8" drive extension. Should I purchase a 1/2" drive extension assortment instead of 3/8" drive? I know I'll need a long ratchet extension to reach top bell housing bolts.


Thanks for all your help!


Definitely sounds like pilot bearing noise BUT before you drop the tranny try adjusting the clutch. An iout of adjustment clutch can cause throw out bearing "rattle".


Thanks everyone.
I know that clutch pedal / friction starts at around 1/2 way from the floor which is not where I'd like it to grab.
Any idea if I should adjust cable shorter or longer or just try both and listen for change in noise?

zachmac
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Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
Location: Aiken, SC

Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby zachmac » Sat Nov 25, 2017 7:37 am

There are a couple of good you tube videos on the clutch adjustment. Basically you should only have about 1 inch of travel before the clutch starts to engage. Sounds to me like you need to shorten it up quite a bit.
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12

Justice777
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Your car is a: 1978 Spider 124 5 spd
Location: Southern Maine

Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby Justice777 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 12:24 pm

Thank you. 1" off floor is exactly where I like it to grab.

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KevAndAndi
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Location: Chatham, NJ

Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby KevAndAndi » Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:46 pm

That 1” of travel is supposed to be at the top, not the bottom. I don’t think you would ever get the clutch to grab with the pedal 1” off the floor.
Kevin
1981 Spider 2000

zachmac
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Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
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Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby zachmac » Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:53 pm

KevAndAndi wrote:That 1” of travel is supposed to be at the top, not the bottom. I don’t think you would ever get the clutch to grab with the pedal 1” off the floor.

This is correct. I should have posted about 1 inch of play before the clutch CABLE begins to DISENGAGE the clutch. The adjustment has you take slack out of the cable such that you encounter resistance (clutch springs on the pressure plate) after about 1 inch of travel from the top. I think I probably have about 2 inches of travel from the floor up before the clutch starts to engage with the travel between there and one inch short of top being the engagement pedal travel.
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12

Justice777
Posts: 119
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:55 pm
Your car is a: 1978 Spider 124 5 spd
Location: Southern Maine

Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby Justice777 » Wed Jan 03, 2018 7:52 am

KevAndAndi wrote:That 1” of travel is supposed to be at the top, not the bottom. I don’t think you would ever get the clutch to grab with the pedal 1” off the floor.


I think you misunderstand. Of course clutch would never work with a total of 1" travel on the pedal. I am saying full pedal throw - whatever that is, say 7". Press pedal the full 7" to shift, but clutch engages at about 1" = 2' off the floor. Most every car I have driven is within this range unless it needed adjustment. If throw is 7", then my clutch engages at around 3" - 4" off the floor which I do not like.

ORFORD2004
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Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby ORFORD2004 » Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:51 pm

If you want your clutch to engage later, you will need to adjust longer.

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wetminkey
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Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby wetminkey » Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:05 am

Proper clutch adjustment will result in about 1" of "play" before engagement of the clutch mechanism. Therefore, clutch engagement begins after 1" of pedal travel toward the floor.
That allows the clutch to fully disengage (plus an inch of travel), but begins the engagement of the clutch as soon as possible.
If you have driven cars that required 7" of clutch pedal travel before the mechanism engages then they have been grossly out of adjustment.
I sure hope this helps.
Todd.
1988 Mazda RX-7
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1978 3/4 ton Chev 4x4 P/U "FRANKENTRUCK"
1976 Camaro
1972 VW Superbeetle
1969 Ford F100
1968 Mustang coupe

Justice777
Posts: 119
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:55 pm
Your car is a: 1978 Spider 124 5 spd
Location: Southern Maine

Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby Justice777 » Wed Jan 10, 2018 12:32 pm

wetminkey wrote:Proper clutch adjustment will result in about 1" of "play" before engagement of the clutch mechanism. Therefore, clutch engagement begins after 1" of pedal travel toward the floor.
That allows the clutch to fully disengage (plus an inch of travel), but begins the engagement of the clutch as soon as possible.
If you have driven cars that required 7" of clutch pedal travel before the mechanism engages then they have been grossly out of adjustment.
I sure hope this helps.
Todd.


Thanks.
If you have driven cars that required 7" of clutch pedal travel before the mechanism engages then they have been grossly out of adjustment.

No - As I said "if 7" is FULL pedal throw."
Anyway, I get what you all are saying now. Thanks.

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wetminkey
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Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby wetminkey » Thu Jan 11, 2018 12:06 am

Cool! I'm glad to help!
I like to have my clutches adjusted right to that 1 - 2" play. That way you can 'speed shift", which is a stab at the clutch pedal while providing pressure to the shift lever and releasing the throttle slightly,...
But adjustment can be no tighter or the clutch release bearing will not fully disengage from the pressure plate flanges.
Hope this will help you have more fun with your car!
Todd.
1988 Mazda RX-7
1979 Fiat Spider 2000
1978 3/4 ton Chev 4x4 P/U "FRANKENTRUCK"
1976 Camaro
1972 VW Superbeetle
1969 Ford F100
1968 Mustang coupe

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MikeHynes
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Re: Confirm Bearing Noise Problem

Postby MikeHynes » Sat Jan 13, 2018 7:25 am

I've experienced the same symptoms with an X1/9 which doesn't have a pilot bearing. It was caused by a failing throw out bearing. I don't think it would be a bad idea to be ready to change that too "while you're in there".


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