Starter Motor

[katsi]

Here's the problem. The clutch on my starter is going out so, I get about 6 key turns that result in nothing more than a series of little clicks. Then, once in a while, the starter will engage. I would go ahead and buy a new starter - I would put my spare starter on - I would replace the starter clutch for 20 bucks IF I COULD ONLY GET THE STUPID THING OFF!!

What is the trick to getting the starter motor off the car? I can see the three bolts, I can not get to them though.

Is their a trick? A special tool. I'm about ready to go to a shop but no way will a shop replace my starter with my spare. They will make me pay 250 bones for one that they source and mark up. (just speculating here - but probably true).

Any advice?

[narfire]

Well I'm not sure what will be worse... your brake issues from a couple of years ago.. (still chuckle about your posts) or the removal of the starter...
The starter is removed from below. Yes it is a royal pain in the sphincter to remove but is doable. Jack the car up a good height and block. You will need a couple of extensions as the trans tunnel is in the way for easy access to one anyway of the bolts, a flex socket is required or flex joint. I believe the ratchet is about 2 feet or more back from the bolts.
For safety.. wear a pair of safety glasses, tons of dirt and crap will be falling off diagonally right into your eyes.
Chris

[spiderrey]

I solved this problem a long time ago by buying a sidewinder rachet.

[manoa matt]

Since its such a pain to remove and replace starters, you may want to consider having your spare starter rebuilt or at least checked out by the local guy who rebuilds starters and alternators before dropping it in. It would be a real PITA to have to do it all over a few weeks later.

[katsi]

.

I solved this problem a long time ago by buying a sidewinder rachet.

Googeling Sidwinder Rachet

Does this really work? A rachet with a crank on the end? I'll have to look again tonight.

Well I'm not sure what will be worse... your brake issues from a couple of years ago.. (still chuckle about your posts)

Yes, using a broomstick handle trying to push on the brake peddle while bleeding the brakes was a little challenging. I solved it by scrapping the car I was working on and getting a different one . Oh yeah, and a brake bleeder pump. No really, the other one had too much rust for my abilities. Another guy who knows how to weld how has the body. I stripped it down and gave it to him.

That reminds me, I let him keep the rear axle and the steering box for ease of towing and getting to it's final destination. He still owes me a rear axle and steering box. Robert, do you remember this?

[So Cal Mark]

a very long extension and swivel socket are must haves. The gear reduction starters are a much easier piece to replace due to their small size. You can also lower the trans x-member for more clearance on the mounting bolts

[tartan18]

I gave up trying to figure out how to remove my original starter. There is simply no way I can get even a socket on the starter's bolt heads as they are within a half inch of the transmission tunnel. Two local mechanics also took a look at this and concluded that the only way to access the bolts is to pull the engine. My suspicion is that the car was in a front end collision and the engine location has shifted from factory dimensions. Installing Allison's aluminum radiator also was a space challenge for what I am theorizing is the same reason. The electric fan shroud is within an 8th inch of the water pump pulley bolts. All is not lost however as I am planning on having the engine pulled when I have the car painted. At that time I will install the new gear reduction starter as well as putting in a new clutch, pressure plate and I might even go with Jason Miller's lightened aluminum flywheel. Oh boy, more money "invested" in my Spider. Will the good times never cease

[BEEK]

find new mechanics......

[124JOE]

tartan18, take it to a frame shop they can pull it straight or sideways what ever it needs

[tartan18]

Thanks for the idea but I have already been to a frame shop to check the alignment -- everything is straight. The problem is that the PO had the cross member welded to the frame so while things are straight the front end can't be adjusted. I will have this taken care of when I prepare to have the car painted. Always a new challenge with my project car. Again, thanks for the feedback.

[zachmac]

Thanks for the idea but I have already been to a frame shop to check the alignment -- everything is straight. The problem is that the PO had the cross member welded to the frame so while things are straight the front end can't be adjusted. I will have this taken care of when I prepare to have the car painted. Always a new challenge with my project car. Again, thanks for the feedback.

Not sure what welding the crossmember to the frame has to do with alignment if it was welded upo straight? All of the adjustments are done via shims between the lower control arm (caster and camber) and the crossmember and the tie rods (toe). Alignment has nothing to do with the crossmember to frame mounting bolts (again assuming the crossmember was welded to the frame straight).

[So Cal Mark]

the crossmember has everything to do with alignment, if it's crooked proper alignment would/could be near impossible depending on how far off it is. If the unibody is tweaked that's another problem. I still doubt this has much bearing on the starter though. That is just a tight space and if you can't work with your fingertips and the proper tools you're going to have a hard time