Replacing Steering Idler

[Burningmustard]

Is it common for the idler to just snap right off like this? It didn't seem like either of the bolts were loose, but they could have been.

Edit: This means I am in the market for a new idler if anyone is selling one.

Thanks.

[BEEK]

unfortunatly this happens alot, i bet you had a squeek while turning the wheel for a little while. the fish oil has run out of the idler, bad bottom seal, the assembly went internally dry, lasted probably 6months or better. the one day snap! the internal assy. siezed. the housing failed. i recomend a late style bushing type idler, only problem you will ever have is replacing a bushing or 2.

[Burningmustard]

Thanks Beek. It just snapped this morning in the driveway. I had the wheel turned and I think the extra force of the curb on a turned wheel just snapped it.

Getting the idler out is a real challenge, the idler shaft and neither of the two rods want to come out of the arm.

[Burningmustard]

No special tools are needed to remove the idler arm, correct? Should pull right out once the nuts are off.

I am just have a heck of a time getting anything to budge.

[BEEK]

only need to remove the tie rod ends, the nut from the idler arm dont worry about it, the replaceement one will come with a arm. there are 2 methods for removal of the rod ends, one is a pickeling fork, which damages the boot usually, the second is "sympathetic harmonic vibration" use a hammer hit the steering arm, not the rod ends or the threaded part the vibrations caused while hitting this will cause the rod end to release. you will have to hit it fairly hard. but again not the rod end or the threaded part.

[mdrburchette]

I don't know if it's even possible to remove the rod from the idler. A balljoint remover will also work on separating the centerlink and idler, but the hammer method is useful.

[Burningmustard]

I tried, but I couldn't get anything to budge, tie rod, center arm or idler arm. I tired a couple different tools that O'Reilly automotive loans out, but I wasn't able to get anywhere with them either. I think the fact that the idler is no longer mounted to the frame creates a lot of play and it is hard to get any leverage.

Think I will end up having it towed to the shop. Wonder what they will charge, guess I will call first thing in the morning and find out.

Thanks!

[mdrburchette]

You tried a pickle fork and Big Hammer? If you use these, be ready to go ahead and buy a center link just to be safe. Here is a picture of the ball joint separator I used on my tie rods to get them separated. It should work whether the idler is attached to the chassis or not:

[Burningmustard]

You tried a pickle fork and Big Hammer? If you use these, be ready to go ahead and buy a center link just to be safe. Here is a picture of the ball joint separator I used on my tie rods to get them separated. It should work whether the idler is attached to the chassis or not:

Okay, I may give it another go tomorrow evening. I will see if I can find a tool like the one you show locally.

[zachmac]

When I replaced mine I found that removing the steering box and idler are box from the car wasn't all that hard and it sure made breaking loose the center link on the bench a lot easier. I removed both, got the old link off, put the two boxes back on the car and then bolted up the new link. This also was a good time to drain the worn out fluid from the idler and refill it which made basically restored its dampening action. I think it has the original oil from the factory still in it!

[Burningmustard]

Thought I would provide an update on this incase anyone is interested or if it helps someone down the road.

I had the car towed to the local Fiat guy. He was busy when the car and I arrived (noon) so I talked to the body shop manager. He said he would let Brian (mechanic) know it was here, and they would be in contact soon.

I called later that day (4:45pm) just to make sure Brian knew the car was there, and didn’t have any questions for me. When Brian got on the phone he said he was working on it now and would have it ready in the morning. I was confused as I thought it would take a while to order the part. I asked if he had access to a used idler, or how would it be ready in the morning. He said he was wielding it back together and that would be that. I asked if that was going to work, and he assured me it would be fine. It caught me off guard so I didn’t really say much, but, okay see you in the morning.

I have driven it maybe 30 miles since then, and no problems. But it broke before; I just keep thinking it will break again.

Anyone have any thoughts on this, did I have a fast one pulled on me.

[htchevyii]

Seems pretty scary to me

[BEEK]

a proper weld is as strong as the original, but unless he fixed the problem (internal seizing, due to lack of lubrication and a faulty lower seal) the problem will happen again

[Foster48x]

What BEEK said. You might want to check with the mechanic to see if he opened the idler to check/replace the fluid and seals. If he didn't your probably going to be pulling it apart again really soon.

Rick