"Strut tower" rust

[narfire]

I know its a pain,but have a look on the inside of the engine compartment where the towers sit. You should notice the spot welds that were used to attatch the towers in the first place. There are spot weld drill bits available expressly for drilling out these things. I have to do the same if I'm to save another 72. One will remove the towers from a parts car quickly by cutting around the towers.(I did) I'd think it would be just about impossible to accuratly match someone elses cutting to what you'd have to do to match and have a strong bond/joint. Take a look at the drilling option,I'd think that would be the way to go. Perhaps someone has done a successful shock tower transplant and can chime in.
Start chilling the installation fluid
Chris

[Vancefish]

I'm not worried about the removal at all. One thing I know is demo, even careful demo. I'm just not 100% on the "Sure Fire" welds I'd produce.

My mother is sending money for the parts. So, She WILL be fixed!

Once the parts arrive I'll prep them first. Drilling out the spot welds on the doner part from the rear to avoid drilling holes in the actual replacement tower. Then once I find a person to do the welding. I'll remove the rusted out towers from the wheel well side. Again to avoid drilling holes in the inner fender of the car. If done carefully I think I can avoid much metal loss on any of the parts being kept. Car or replacement tower.

The last of the parts I ordered before finding this rust come in tomorrow. Basically replacing every suspension bushing, and arm. Plus timing belt, tune up, oil change with new oil pan gasket, U-joints, drive shaft bearing, plus replacing the rear axle seal and gasket. Upper and lower ball joints, both steering arms. Panhard arm, and all four trailing arms.

The one thing I'm not sure on right now are the springs themselves. It seems like the left side of the car sits lower then the right. It may be these towers that are causing that, plus my bumpy driveway. However looking for new spring sets was not pretty. All I found, lowered the car 1". Which would not do in Colorado. I'm not even sure they need replaced yet. I just like to keep an idea out for future "bumps" in the road. Plus springs are usually not all that expensive.

[124JOE]

well it sounds like you have aslot of work to do

pics would be nice

[Vancefish]

well it sounds like you have aslot of work to do

pics would be nice

There are Pics Joe. Look at page 1. At this exact point, not much has changed. Other then the depth of the parts pile in my Kitchen.

Any idea where to get OEM springs?

[124JOE]

ho sorry i did see those pics

if you didnt try,post under parts wanted for those springs

i seen somewere someone has some.joe

[Vancefish]

I feel as though progress is being made finally.

Last week I changed out all four trailing arms. However I discovered the Panhard arm I bought was for a '78+. I've got an email in to return it. However that straight (unbent) arm is not available new in that site (or any other I could find either). I also ordered the wrong driveshaft mid bearing. What I actually needed was a Carrier bearing.

However I got all the old gas out of the car on Friday night. Soaked the disassembled Weber in a can ($28 can!!) of Carb cleaner. Then reassembled it yesterday. Minus the tiny C clip that took flight on removal. I found the Temp sensor sticking out of the carb has a stripped hole. My step father had successfully used a bit of high temp silicone to keep it in. Which I'll also have to do, as the carb cleaner took that stuff right off.

Friday night, and a chunck of Saturday were spent hunting down an unemployed welder on Craigslist. I found a couple of people who were not what I'd consider "Friendly" to the job. However I did find a guy about 1 mile from my place who will likely be the guy to get the job. He is also going to read this (and the other thread). To get a better idea what we're doing.

The plan as it is now is,.. Prep the donor parts when they arrive. Disassemble the front end and drill out those towers. Prep those surfaces,.. Then have it towed, nose up, to the welders house. He'll weld them on,... Then I'll reassemble right there in his driveway. Drive it to MY job where I'll again disassemble to do finishing work and paint. Then re-assemble, get an alignment. Then it's done!

Ah, and I need to do the timing belt, oil change with pan gasket, U joints, Carrier bearing and rear axle front seal and gasket.

I also need to install 3 point seat belts.

Easy. LOL

[Vancefish]

Update!

It's been slow going. I returned the panhard arm, and received bushings to stuff into the old one. I also bought both a water pump, and a guibo. Which neither were originally planned. I've preped the doner strut towers (but have not removed the old ones yet.

PLUS I'm adding a street style role bar, giving the car a great attachment location for the three point seat belts, I already bought!

MY ISSUE: Being ready to remove the drive train behind the transmission, to replace virtually all drive line components. I need to know HOW to fix the tranny issue first!

The problem: When under extra load, in reverse,.. It pops out of gear!

I've only been able to find other fiats like X19's with this issue. Plus a few people saying I am lucky it's reverse and not 1-4! One guy even said it's an adjustment.

However if I need to pull the tranny to fix this. It would be a good idea to do it WHILE I replace the drive shaft components. Instead of removing all of this twice.

If anyone knows of a link to this, or can describe the repair it would really help.

Thanks

[124JOE]

i had a bad 2nd gear it POPEDout alot
and then 3rd so i had a rebuild done
but that tranz case was cracked
so i got another and it poped 3rd
so i had a rebuild done as the case was good

[Vancefish]

The one fiat guy I spoke to on the phone said that 1-4 were a pain in the a$$. However 5/R is supposedly easy-ish to deal with. The guy telling me this on the phone was having trouble with his phone. After loosing the call three times we gave up.

I'd planned to work on it this weekend. Issue is I do not know what I'm doing about this reverse issue. The guy on the phone also said it'll spread to 5th eventually. So fixing it IS a priority while I'm there anyway!

I have a book. My issue is the book does not say WHAT wears out. What do I need to replace to fix this?

[124JOE]

they made me buy new gears and sinkrolls
and posibly berrings

[Vancefish]

I know I do not need new gears, NOR do I need new Synchros (as in Synchronizers). I DO NOT need a new case, OR a complete re-build!

I was told the Reverse pop out, is due to an issue in the rear overhanging shifter area of the transmission. NOT in the actual gear box!

IF you have information about repairing REVERSE gear pop out. Please help. I have NO issues with 1-4 or 5. ONLY reverse. As said before, it only pops out when under extra load. Like reversing up a slope, or over a bump. Like a speed bump, or rock.

Might it be the reverse gear shiftrod detent pin or bean! As that is the ONLY part available FOR the reverse gear, OTHER then the entire 5/R gear shaft.

[Vancefish]

Finding information about this tranny issue is nearly impossible!

What I've gathered, (with zero Internet help) is,.. It could be caused by all the play in the drive train (bad guibo, carrier bearing, tranny mount, motor mounts). Maybe even the trailing arm bushings, which I already replaced and then had improvement. Now instead of HOLDING it in reverse, it only pops out under extra load, without holding it.

If replacing all these other "aligning" parts does not fix the issue. It's likely the bean is worn out.

So, onto doing what I intended to do over the weekend, which will likely repair the issue I was concerned with!

Se la vie

[Vancefish]

Oh so much play!! This car has some SERIOUS issues! Every time I touch it, I find more things that need replacing.

Good news is the car doesn't have to many parts!

So, Taking out the rear end, from the tranny back. There was 1/6th of the guibo missing, and four cracks that passed 3/4ths through the rubber! The carrier bearing rubber was disconnected completely. The four bolt/nuts on the rear Drive-shaft/axle U-joint were all loose (sludge holding them on). Worst of all, two of the cross member studs on the bottom of the car are partly stripped of threads!

I'm cutting new threads today. I already did the rest. Then the rear end will be FAR FAR more solid then a few months back. Hopefully this solves the reverse pop out issue.

The new strut towers are prepped and ready for install. As I said before I already found a welder locally. I just need to KNOW it's ready for him before I send it over. Plus knowing when he's done, that I can throw it back together to drive it home quickly.

Which is my issue this week! Last week I drove it to a lot to work on it (About 150 yards, Max 11mph)). When I went back, it wouldn't start. I have fuel. Going to have to track down IF I have spark. (Can't crank, and look at the same time) I borrowed a light to check it/ Track it down.

Incidentally, I DID buy new front control arms. Both upper and lower. Leaving few old parts on the front OR rear end.

[Vancefish]

So, I cut new threads into the cross member studs, Installed the new transmission mount, Guibo, carrier bearing assembly both U-joints and cleaned up/re-painted the cross members. It looks far better.

Now to get her running again. Then it's strut tower time! Woo Hoo!!

[vandor]

When I went back, it wouldn't start. I have fuel. Going to have to track down IF I have spark. (Can't crank, and look at the same time).

Yes you can. Put the coil wire by the hood latch, that way you will see if it sparks.